Lenoble Gentilhomme Grand Cru 2006

Wineadvocate

While a pronouncedly stony but also rather tart and acrid “regular” Lenoble blanc de blancs from this vintage was underwhelming (as was a rather diffuse, slightly dank non-vintage version), the 2006 Brut Blancs de Blancs Cuvee Gentilhomme – from what they consider their prime parcels, and treated around 20% to barrique-maturation – made a far more interesting and satisfying impression. Lemon, grapefruit, apple and white peach are intriguingly tinged with green tea as well as with pronouncedly piquant fruit pit. Welcome, saliva-liberating salinity and generous sheer juiciness combine to keep this from seeming too austere, even at a mere three grams of residual sugar. There is a combination of graininess – almost grit – with finishing tang, piquancy and grip that I certainly wouldn’t characterized as refined or nuanced. But this should prove worth employing at table over the next couple of years.

Vinous

Vivid yellow. Complex, mineral-accented bouquet evokes fresh citrus fruits, pear skin, honeysuckle and iodine, plus a hint of candied ginger. Racy and pure, offering powerful citrus pith and mineral flavors and deeper notes of nectarine and fig in the mid-palate. Finishes incisive and spicy, with excellent energy and lingering mineral and smoke notes.