Emmanuel Brochet Hautes Vignes 2017

Wineadvocate

The 2017 Les Hautes Vignes Le Mont Benoit is a new cuvée that originates from the uppermost part of the slope, where vines—planted in 1962 with massal selections—grow on exceptionally shallow soils (merely 30 centimeters of topsoil over chalk). This bottling replaces the previous Les Hauts Chardonnays and Les Hauts Meuniers. In 2017, frost drastically reduced yields, prompting Brochet to blend Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier—an idea inspired both by David Léclapart’s L’Aphrodisiaque (whose story is also told in this publication) and the cohabitation of these varieties within the same parcel. Disgorged in October 2024 without dosage (though retaining between four to six grams of residual sugar), it wafts from the glass with a deep bouquet of yellow apple, dried apricot and grapefruit zest mingling with white flowers and warm brioche. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, layered and superbly balanced, built around chalky structuring extract and enlivened by vibrant acidity, and it concludes with a searingly saline finish. In essence, this cuvée unites the acidic backbone of Chardonnay with the expressive fruit and charm of Pinot Meunier. As with all of Emmanuel Brochet’s work, this wine is produced with uncompromising attention. That it effortlessly transcends the reputation of the vintage will come as no surprise to those familiar with his ability.