Porto Graham's Single Harvest Tawny 1994

The 1994 Single Harvest Tawny Port (that's called a Colheita traditionally, but some producers have decided to translate) is a field blend bottled in May 2018 with a bar-top cork and 124 grams of residual sugar. Showing lots of power and plenty of depth, this is a radically different style than the Otima (Warre's) this issue. Intense, deep and packed with fruit, it lingers forever on the finish in the way a great tawny should—and this is a great tawny, flavorful, structured and deep. Not even 30 years old yet, it seems to be an overachiever for its relatively young age. For historical interest, this is one of the first Colheitas that winemaker Charles Symington made. He seemed to be a proud father when I tasted it.