Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegrès - Château des Jacques 2010 (Magnum)

Wineadvocate

A 2010 Moulin-a-Vent Clos de Rochegres originates in the high-elevation site that is by de Castelnau’s account farthest advanced in Chateau des Jacques’s conversion to biodynamic farming, thanks he says to the diligent collaboration of those participating vignerons who are responsible for day-to-day work in these particular vines. Decidedly the most carnal wine in its collection, this emphasizes both smoked and fresh red meats and displays a sappy sense of extract-richness even though tart black fruits are not to the fore. Saliva-inducing salinity, tincture of iodine, and what I can only describe – even if this is merely from power-of-suggestion – as iron filings introduce dynamic and depth to a sustained finish. This finely-tannic, energetic though hardly effusive Moulin-a-Vent should benefit from a couple of years in bottle and merit attention for six or more.